Lorraine Dallmeier of Formula Botanica on Making Anti Pollution Skinacare

Environmental pollution is a significant problem in many large cities around the world and anti-pollution skincare is a hot new trend coming out of Asia. A significant number of studies have examined the effects of pollution on the ageing of the skin and found some alarming results.

Pollutants are very diverse, from some airborne components such as Ozone or Nitrogen Dioxide to industrial residues such as polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbon and nanoparticles. The effect that these pollutants can have on the skin depends of course on the daily environmental exposure. This exposure will vary from location to location and between individuals. However, if you live in a large polluted city then it is very likely that your skin is being exposed to significant pollution every single day.

Effects of Pollution on the Skin

Researchers have found the following effects of pollution on the skin:

• Ozone in photochemical smog appears to speed up skin ageing, by depleting Vitamin E levels in the skin, interfering with wound-healing processes and causing oxidative stress.
• Skin exposed to pollution areas experiences a higher sebum secretion rate, when compared to non-polluted areas.
• There is a tendency of the cutaneous pH to decrease when exposed to pollution. One study found a higher a significantly higher amount of lactic acid in the skin in polluted areas compared to non-polluted areas.
• Squalene and vitamin E are the main antioxidants at the surface of the skin. Squalene is decreased in polluted areas, as this antioxidant is mobilised to combat oxidative stress in the skin. Low values of both these two antioxidants is normally associated with dry skin which may be a side effect of pollution.
• Cholesterol in the skin is decreased when exposed to pollution.

Scientific studies into Pollution and Skin

Globally, studies have found a tendency to find more skin problems in the more polluted areas of the world. Research is still ongoing into the skin’s deep layers’ reactions to pollutants.

Skin Pollution Research in China

One study was undertaken during summer 2008 in two different districts of Shanghai, on 159 local residents: 79 subjects from Xu Jia Hui (a centre Shanghainese area), more exposed to pollution, and 80 subjects from Chong Ming, an agricultural region closely located north of Shanghai (<100 kms) and less exposed to pollution, according to official data. Researchers then measured various skin parameters, and feedback from volunteers was collected through a questionnaire.

The study demonstrated significant differences in several biochemical parameters measured in the rural Chong Ming area, as compared to the urban Shanghai area, with an increased ratio of squalene/lipids, a lower level of lactic acid and a better cohesion of stratum corneum. Both sebum excretion rate and sebum casual levels did not differ between the two districts. The volunteer’s feedback suggested a perceived link between pollution and their skin problems.

Skin Pollution Research in Mexico

A similar clinical study was performed on 96 people in Mexico City (exposed to pollution) and 93 people in Cuernavaca (less exposed to pollution). Both biochemical and clinical skin parameters were studied.

The study demonstrated significant quantitative and qualitative modifications of parameters related to sebum excretion in Mexico City compared to Cuernavaca: the participants in Mexico City noticed an increased level of sebum excretion rate, a lower level of vitamin E and squalene in sebum, an increase of lactic acid and a higher erythematous index (redness) on the face of the subjects.

How to formulate Anti-Pollution Skincare

What is anti-pollution skincare? It will either include products that prevent skin damage caused by pollution, or products that rectify skin damage caused by pollution – or both.

When you’re formulating with the overall aim of providing anti-pollution skincare, you should aim to incorporate high antioxidant levels into the overall skincare product. Living in a highly polluted area means that often your skin may feel as if it has a thick layer of grime and grease on your skin, so gentle cleansing products will be important. You may also wish to account for higher levels of sebum production by formulating skincare which has a balancing effect on the oil levels of the skin. Barrier repair functionality is also a key point to consider, as cholesterol levels are low in the skin exposed to pollution. Some people may find that pollution has a drying effect on their skin given depleted antioxidant levels...
Visit www.formulabotanica.com for details.

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References

• Lefebvre, M.A. et al. 2015. Consequences of urban pollution upon skin status. A controlled study in Shanghai area. Int. J. Cosm. Sci. 2015 Aug 20. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26291783
• Lefebvre, M.A. et al. 2015. Evaluation of the impact of urban pollution on the quality of skin: a multicentre study in Mexico.
  Int. J. Cosm. Sci.2015 Jun;37(3):329-38. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/25655908

Want to formulate anti-ageing products for your skincare range? Enrol for Formula Botanica’s Certificate in Organic Anti-Ageing Skincare today. 

Lorraine Dallmeier is a Biologist / Environmental Scientist and eLearning Entrepreneur. She is the Director of Formula Botanica, the world’s leading accredited Organic Cosmetic Science School for people wanting to launch or grow their organic skincare business. Over 1,600 students in 85+ countries have now followed Formula Botanica’s courses to make high performance, professional organic cosmetics.

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History of Oriflame Cosmetics: What is your Brand History?

Founded in 1967 by two brothers and their friend, Oriflame is now an international beauty company selling direct in more than 60 countries worldwide. The wide portfolio of Swedish, natural, innovative beauty products are marketed through a sales force of approximately 3.6 million independent consultants, who together create annual sales exceeding some €1.5 billion.

A Quick Fact About Oriflame

Around 1.5 billion Euros in annual sales.
Over 3 million Oriflame Consultants.
Operations in more than 60 countries.
Around 7,500 employees.
Wide portfolio of approximately 1,000 Swedish, nature-inspired, innovative beauty products
Catalogues distributed in 40 languages.
Global R&D Centre with more than 100 scientists.
Own production units in Sweden, Poland, China, Russia and India.
Co-founder of World Childhood Foundation.
Corporate offices in Luxembourg and Switzerland.
Listed on the Nasdaq OMX Exchange since March 2004.

Oriflame has a special formulations for different skin types.  They are know for good and effective products.

Do you have your own cosmetics line or planning to start one, I encourage you to work diligently to make it a success. Who knows your brand may be the next big story!!!

Kelly Dobos: Veteran Cosmetics Scientist

Kelly Dobos is a research chemist in the cosmetic industry.
She has published over 10 articles in well recognised media.
She has a cool job with Sun Chemicals and has the passion to teach.  She is a guest writer for Perry ||Romanosky's  www.chemistcorner.com
Her Tweeter handle is @kellydobos.
Check her out and you can find something to learn from her.

HISTORY OF AROMATHERAPY ESSENTIAL OILS

The advent of “aromatherapy” has been attributed to both the Ancient Egyptians and Chinese over 4500 years ago, as scented plants and their products were used in religious practices, as medicines, perfumes, and embalming agents (Manniche, 1989, 1999), and to bring out greater sexuality (Schumann Antelme and Rossini, 2001).


But essential oils as such were unlikely to have been used. In Ancient Egypt, crude plant extracts of frankincense, myrrh, or galbanum, and so on were used in an oily vegetable or animal fat that was massaged onto the bodies of workers building the pyramids or the rich proletariat after their baths (Manniche, 1999). These contained essential oils, water-soluble 554 Handbook of Essential Oils extractives, and pigments. Incense smoke from resinous plant material provided a more sacrosanct atmosphere for making sacrifices, both animal and human, to the gods.


The incense was often mixed with narcotics like cannabis to anesthetize the sacrificial animals, especially with humans (Devereux, 1997). The frankincense extract in oils (citrusy odor) was entirely different to that burnt (church-like) in chemical composition (Arctander, 1960), and therefore would have entirely different functions.

SCENTED PLANTS USED AS INCENSE IN ANCIENT EGYPT 

Frankincense (Boswellia carterii; Boswellia thurifera) (Burseraceae), Myrrh (Commiphora myrrha; Balsamodendron myrrha; Balsamodendron opobalsamum) (Burseraceae), Labdanum (Cistus ladaniferus), Galbanum (Ferula galbaniflua), Styrax (Styrax officinalis), or Liquidambar orientalis, Balm of Gilhead (Commiphora opobalsamum), Sandalwood (Santalum album), and Opoponax (Opoponax chironium). Uses included various concoctions of kyphi, burnt three times a day to the sun god Ra: morning, noon, and sunset, in order for him to come back.

The ingredients included raisins, juniper, cinnamon, honey, wine, frankincense, myrrh, burnt resins, cyperus, sweet rust, sweet flag, and aspalanthus in a certain secret proportion (Loret, 1887; Manniche, 1989; Forbes, 1955), as shown on the walls of the laboratory in the temples of Horus at Edfu and Philae. Embalming involved odorous plants such as juniper, cassia, cinnamon, cedarwood, and myrrh, together with natron to preserve the body and ensure safe passage to the afterlife. The bandages in which the mummy was wrapped were drenched in stacte (oil of myrrh) and sprinkled with other spices (for further descriptions and uses, see Lis-Balchin, 2006).




The Chinese also used an incense, hsiang, meaning “aromatic,” made from a variety of plants, with sandalwood being particularly favored by Buddhists. In India, fragrant flowers including jasmine and the root of spikenard giving a sweet scent were used. The Hindus obtained cassia from China and were the first to organize trading routes to Arabia where frankincense was exclusively found. The Hebrews traditionally used incense for purification ceremonies. The use of incense probably spread to Greece from Egypt around the eighth century bc.




The Indians of Mesoamerica used copal, a hard, lustrous resin, obtained from pine trees and various other tropical trees by slicing the bark (Olibanum americanum). Copal pellets bound to corn-husk tubes would be burnt in hollows on the summits of holy hills and mountains, and these places, blackened by centuries of such usage, are still resorted to by today’s Maya in Guatemala (Janson, 1997) and used medicinally to treat diseases of the respiratory system and the skin. Anointing also involves incense (Unterman, 1991).




Queen Elizabeth II underwent the ritual in 1953 at her coronation, with a composition of oils originated by Charles I: essential oils of roses, orange blossom, jasmine petals, sesame seeds, and cinnamon combined with gum benzoin, musk, civet, and ambergris were used (Ellis, 1960). Similarly, musk, sandalwood, and other fragrances were used by the Hindus to wash the effigies of their gods, and this custom was continued by the early Christians.




This probably accounts for the divine odor frequently reported when the tombs of early Christians were opened (Atchley and Cuthbert, 1909). The Christian Church was slow to adopt the use of incense until medieval times, when it was used for funerals (Genders, 1972). The reformation reversed the process as it was considered to be of pagan origin but it still survives in the Roman Catholic Church. Aromatic substances were also widely used in magic (Pinch, 1994).




Source: Handbook of Essential oils.

Image: zentofitness.com

Decornel: A Substitute for Beads in Skincare Formulations?

The Sasol SHEER AND INNOCENT family of products now has a new member: DECORNEL.

When it comes to body care, your customers don’t want any compromises – they only want the best. Purity, safety, high-level performance, peace of mind – all this and more is what you’ll get with DECORNEL.

We have unlocked the potential of natural gas to provide an outstanding wax bead solution that provides constant quality for your beauty product. With a strong focus on the preservation of natural resources, we are paving the way to a greener future – for your business too. 

For more information please visit: www.decornel.com

Source: Cosmetics Business.

Tanzania Model is the New Face of Maybelline

Tanzanian model Herieth Paul is the new face of Maybelline.

Born and raised in Dares Salaam, Tanzania, Paul moved over to Canada when she was 14 years old before being scouted at 16 years old. In June 2010 she was signed to Women Management which saw her posing for top photographers including Steven Meisel, David Sims and Ellen von Unwerth, as well as appearing in global editions of Vogue, Teen Vogue, i-D, Dazed + Confused, LOVE, Elle, Allure, Glamour and Le Monde.

She has also walked the runways for Proenza Schouler, Stella McCartney, Balmain, Tom Ford, Ralph Lauren, Burberry, Rag & Bone, Rodarte, Giles Deacon, Rick Owens, Carolina Herrera, Philip Lim, DKNY and Derek Lam, in addition to being the face of Tom Ford, Polo Ralph Lauren, cK One, The Gap, Diesel, Edun, and Rodarte.

Commenting on the appointment, Leonardo Chavez, Global Brand President of Maybelline New York Worldwide said: “Herieth has an incredible aura; she is smart, strikingly beautiful and has a lovely personality. In photographs she captivates you with her beauty and in person she exudes a refreshing and unpretentious gorgeousness which women around the world will be able to relate to.”

Speaking about her new role as a brand ambassador Paul said: she is “honoured to be able to work for Maybelline and is grateful to be given such an amazing opportunity. I love the values of the brand. "Make It Happen" falls right in line with how I live. I have been truly blessed and afforded so many great opportunities and I am thrilled to be part of a brand that celebrates strong, confident and beautiful women around the world.”

Source; Cosmetic Business